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Spices

How to Make Sri Lankan Curry Powder

If you do one thing to cook better Sri Lankan food, make your own roasted curry powder. It takes fifteen minutes, fills the kitchen with an incredible smell, and beats anything in a jar. Here's exactly how.

Spices7 min read

A Basic Roasted (Dark) Blend

A reliable home blend: 4 tbsp coriander seeds, 2 tbsp cumin seeds, 1 tbsp fennel seeds, 1 tsp black peppercorns, a 5 cm cinnamon stick, 6 cardamom pods, 6 cloves, a sprig of curry leaves and a few dried red chillies.

These proportions make enough for several curries and keep for a couple of months. Scale up once you're confident.

The Roasting Method

Dry-toast the coriander, cumin and fennel in a heavy pan over medium heat, stirring constantly, until deep golden-brown and fragrant, about 5-8 minutes. Add the smaller spices and curry leaves for the last minute or two.

Watch closely: you want a deep toasty brown, not black. The moment they smell nutty and start to darken, take them off the heat. Residual heat will keep cooking them.

Grinding and Storing

Cool the spices completely, then grind to a fine powder in a spice grinder. Cooling first prevents clumping and keeps the powder dry so it stores well.

Keep it airtight in a jar away from light and heat. Make small batches often rather than one big one. Freshly roasted powder is the whole point.

Roasted vs Unroasted, When to Use Which

Use this roasted blend for chicken, beef, lamb and fish curries, anything that wants colour and depth. For a milder, lighter unroasted powder (for cashew or white vegetable curries), simply skip the roasting and add a little extra turmeric.

Both start from the same spices. Roasting is the only difference, and it changes everything.

Shortcuts When You Can't Roast

No time? Buy a Sri Lankan brand of roasted curry powder (MD, Larich) from a Tamil grocer or online. Avoid generic 'curry powder', which is milder, yellower and tastes quite different.

In a real pinch, dry-toast a good garam masala with extra ground coriander for a passable stand-in.

Recipes to Try Next

Put this guide into practice with these authentic Sri Lankan recipes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Sri Lankan curry powder is a freshly roasted blend of whole spices, most often coriander, cumin and fennel, sometimes with fenugreek, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, curry leaves and dried chilli. The defining feature is that the seeds are dry-roasted until dark and fragrant before grinding, which gives the powder its deep, smoky, slightly nutty flavour. This roasted style is what sets it apart from most other curry powders, which are left raw and pale.

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